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Wednesday, November 30, 2016

Three Passes Trek - Day 4


Trek Day 4 - Namche Bazaar to Samde and return.

Today is an acclimatisation day, so that our bodies get used to the reduced levels of oxygen in the air before trekking higher. This helps reduce its he risk of AMS (acute mountain sickness). So today we trekked for 4 hours- 2 hours west in the direction of Thame and 2 hours return. We found a perfectly positioned tea house exactly at the 2 hour mark at the village of Samde, providing perfect panoramic views of an unimaginably beautiful chain of snow-capped mountains.

Trekking away from the main EBC route was fantastic with only a few other Trekkers sharing the route over the 4 hour journey. We stopped at Thamo to visit a women's monastery then carried on. We also attempted to take a side route up a steep hill leading to a men's monastery but somehow got sidetracked and wound up back on the main path.

Everything about Sherpa lifestyle seems to be immersed in peacefulness. The absence of cars, motorcycles or even bicycles not only reduces noise and pollution but has a profound impact on the environment and the scenery with no roads, car parks,etc, just quaint little walking paths lined with rock walls that have evolved gradually and with great care and contemplation over many centuries.

Every so often we came across chortles (stupas), go pas or stone wall work that appeared to have been recently cemented together following last year's earthquake, which caused significant damage on this part of the trail. We also saw quite a few piles of rubble and a number of damaged buildings, but most appeared to have been repaired or demolished.

The other 'natural' disaster we've been learning about is GLOFs (Glacial Lake Outburst Floods). These occur when the ice holding back glacial lakes finally gives way to global warming causing a massive sudden burst of water like a dam breaking, causing rivers to suddenly rise and destroying everything in its way like a massive inland tsunami of freezing cold water. We have passed a number of signs indicating where evacuation stations are located. The government have also started pumping water out of some of the more dangerous lakes to reduce the impact.

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