Three Passes Trek - Day 4

Trek Day 4 - Namche Bazaar to Samde and return.

Today is an acclimatisation day, so that our bodies get used to the reduced levels of oxygen in the air before trekking higher. This helps reduce its he risk of AMS (acute mountain sickness). So today we trekked for 4 hours- 2 hours west in the direction of Thame and 2 hours return. We found a perfectly positioned tea house exactly at the 2 hour mark at the village of Samde, providing perfect panoramic views of an unimaginably beautiful chain of snow-capped mountains.

Trekking away from the main EBC route was fantastic with only a few other Trekkers sharing the route over the 4 hour journey. We stopped at Thamo to visit a women's monastery then carried on. We also attempted to take a side route up a steep hill leading to a men's monastery but somehow got sidetracked and wound up back on the main path.

Everything about Sherpa lifestyle seems to be immersed in peacefulness. The absence of cars, motorcycles or even bicycles not only reduces noise and pollution but has a profound impact on the environment and the scenery with no roads, car parks,etc, just quaint little walking paths lined with rock walls that have evolved gradually and with great care and contemplation over many centuries.

Every so often we came across chortles (stupas), go pas or stone wall work that appeared to have been recently cemented together following last year's earthquake, which caused significant damage on this part of the trail. We also saw quite a few piles of rubble and a number of damaged buildings, but most appeared to have been repaired or demolished.

The other 'natural' disaster we've been learning about is GLOFs (Glacial Lake Outburst Floods). These occur when the ice holding back glacial lakes finally gives way to global warming causing a massive sudden burst of water like a dam breaking, causing rivers to suddenly rise and destroying everything in its way like a massive inland tsunami of freezing cold water. We have passed a number of signs indicating where evacuation stations are located. The government have also started pumping water out of some of the more dangerous lakes to reduce the impact.

Three Passes Trek - Day 3

Day 3-October 31 - Monjo to Namche Bazaar

Again started just before 6:00am Today's trek was a steep climb for a little over 2 hours. Highlights include: (I) crossing a long, high bridge spanning a deep valley at the bottom of which was a raging river (BhoeKoshi). (ii) Our first view of Chomo Lungma (Everest). (iii) arrival at Namche Bazaar - a beautiful village/ small town nestled into the mountain side like a grand amphitheatre on three sides. We got a room high on the western side with spectacular views of high peaks and morning sun through the window. Lowlight: totally pooped from carrying the backpack uphill. Looking forward to  tomorrows walk minus the baggage.

Afternoon: walked around the village and over to the Sargamatha visitors centre. Great views of valleys and mountains, statue of Tenzing Norgay and aging museum display in need of attention.

Some thoughts on trekking early.

Advantages of trekking early morning.

1. Experience the sunrise at it lights up the mountains and valleys with its ever-changing angles of shadow and light.
2. Enjoy the peacefulness of the trek without hundreds of other Trekkers. This is particularly true while on the EBC route, but less of a problem later (after Dingboche).
3. Arrive early enough at destination that there are plenty of choices of empty rooms.
4. Long, leisurely afternoons to relax, read and enjoy the village we're staying in.
5. Do the first 2 hours before breakfast, which is when we normally exercise at home, rather than walking early on a full stomach.

Disadvantages

1. Occasionally when the path is unclear there is nobody around to ask.
2. Getting up early and walking briskly for 2 hours on a cold morning before breakfast might not be everybody's thing (some people are owls, some are larks).

Three Passes Trek- Day 2

Three Passes Trek - Day 2 (Sun 30 October 2016)

Lukla to Monjo
Woke at 5:00am. Packed up, picked up pre-ordered food from kitchen and were on our way by 5:55 to enjoy the first light of the day. Perfect time of day for trekking, no other Trekkers on the path, just 2 hours of peace and quiet and a few incidental chats with local Sherpa people. Beautiful mountain villages, wild rivers, a high (swinging) bridge across a landslide, first glints of sunshine lighting up craggy snow-covered peaks like neon beacons announcing the new day. Yaks and donkey trains were frequent - leaning back frequently to avoid being spiked by sharp horns. Took a break for brekky at Pakding, ordered a pot of ginger tea to go with our pre packed eggs and rice.

A high number of Trekkers were staying at Pakding and after breakfast they started spilling out onto the track. Over the next hour the trail was transformed into a human freeway with hundreds of people moving in both directions, backpackers and tour groups on the main EBC route competing for space with porters and animals.

We reached Bengkar soon afterward and continued on to Monjo, with a steep climb as we came into town bringing us to 200m higher than we had begun. On the way we were stopped by some girls wishing us a happy Tihar, the Nepali version of Diwali, the festival of l.ights. They had the classic home-made lemonade stand and also sold us 2 large carrots which were delicious and sweet.

Made it to Monjo, found a simple room at Everest Pilgrim Lodge with a nice sitting area and beautiful views of the treed river valley. Had lunch and relaxed the rest of the day.

Lessons from today:
1. Trek early
2. Travel light (I've already ditched a few things).
3. Even the lower altitudes are stunning, if the whole trek is as nice as this I'll be more than happy.

Three Passes Trek Day 1 (part 2)

...soaking up the vibes of this peaceful Sherpa village. The contrast with the noise, bustle and smog of Kathmandu couldn't be more stark, with no cars or motorbikes, just yaks, donkeys and quite a few dogs.
In the afternoon we went for a beautiful walk all round the village and up into the nearby hills, so nice to reconnect to the beauty of a world not ruled by technology (although a lot of people carry phones, but no motorised transport). The lodge we're staying in has a warm dining room where we have just ordered a "medium pot" (enormous flask) of hot lemon and ginger tea (delish) plus Dahl beat (veg curry, rice and lentils). Met an Aussie guy called Steve who has just finished the trek we are starting, he gave us lots of info and had obviously had an amazing trip. That's all for now , going to bed for an early start tomorrow.

Three Passes Trek - Day 1

...this blog is a kind of retrospective of the trek we've just finished.... but were unable to add posts while on the trek.... so the dates of the posts and the dates of the trek are different, and all transcribed from a tattered looking notebook. The trek, by the way, was amazing. It took us 26 days and included the 3 passes of Kongma La, Cho La and Renjo La, plus 3 trekking peaks (Chukung Ri, Kalla Pattar and Gokyo Ri), 3 mountaneering base camps (Ama Dablam, Island Peak and Everest) and a few other side trips.

Day 1- Kathmandu to Lukla

Rose early and packed, breakfast, taxi to airport.

The 30 min flight to Lukla on Tara Air reminded me of our flights from Broome to Djugerari. The plane, which managed to squash in18 passengers, seemed to be close to its use-by date and the twin propellors whined like chainsaws as we rattled across the sky. Despite this a very professional and well-presented female cabin steward plied us with newspapers, lollies and earplugs.

Once we were airborne it was easy to get lost in the views of snow capped himalayas intermingled with clouds, growing larger before our eyes.

The entry ito Lukla is quite surreal.  The plane emerges up the valley, banks a little to the right to reveal an astonishingly short runway with a stone wall at the end to remind you to stop in time.  To assist the plane in slowing down, the runway inclines upwards at a sharp angle. Quite an unbelievable site when you go back later and watch other planes land and take off (as there's not a lot else going on in Lukla). Take off is even better, the inclineof the runway gives the plane the advantage of a downhill start, the engines rev to the highest possible pitch, like drag cars waiting for the green light, and then suddenly there is a surge forward and somehow the nose of the plane lifts about 3 quarters of the way along the runway and thus avoiding what appears to be a potentially perilous drop into they abyss of the valley. Just imagine that the Titanic were an aircraft carrier half-submerged and the plane passengers are relying on a successful take off before hitting the water.

OK, enough about the plane ride, its really no more hair raising than a Nepali bus ride and over much quicker. The real highlight of the day was arriving in Lukla and soaking up the vibes of this peaceful Sherpa village (TBC)